Polynucleotides in Aesthetic Medicine: Everything You Need to Know

Tired of looking tired? Polynucleotides have gained popularity as the ultimate glow-up for your skin and under-eye area - a part of the new focus in aesthetics of regenerative medicine.

Regenerative medicine is all about repairing, replacing, or regenerating cells, tissues, or organs to restore their function. The basic principle involves giving your body a boost to heal itself from any damage or signs of ageing. Regenerative medicine is an expanding field within aesthetics, with exciting treatments like exosomes and polynucleotides being the talk of the town.

So what exactly are polynucleotides and how do they work?

Let’s find out!

What are Polynucleotides?

To put it simply, polynucleotides are chains of nucleotides like DNA or RNA. These little superheroes are molecules that stimulate fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and maintaining the structure of your skin. As we age, the function of fibroblasts decreases, resulting in less collagen production and, you guessed it, more wrinkles. But when polynucleotides are injected into your skin, they jumpstart the regeneration process, making your fibroblasts work their magic again.

Not only do polynucleotides boost collagen production, but they are thought to improve elasticity, increase hydration, and plump. On top of all this, they are powerful antioxidants and have anti-inflammatory properties. They're like a one-stop solution for various skin concerns. And the best part? They have minimal side effects, like temporary redness and swelling, which disappear in no time.

I know what you want to ask though -

“What is with this ‘Salmon Sperm Facial’ I’ve been seeing everywhere?”

The “Salmon Sperm Facial”

It's understandable that the name "salmon sperm facial" might raise some eyebrows! Let's break it down.

Salmon sperm is a rich source of high-quality DNA that is very similar to human DNA. This makes it highly compatible with our skin and less likely to cause reactions. These fish are not specifically farmed for this purpose, but instead this is obtained as a byproduct of the food industry, making this an ethical and sustainable practice. The collected sperm undergoes a rigorous purification process to isolate the polynucleotides (DNA) from other components.

So you can see, the name "salmon sperm facial" is a bit of a misnomer. It's not a facial in the traditional sense, and no actual sperm is applied to your face.

How Are They Used in Aesthetic Medicine?

Polynucleotides are administered through injections, and the process is quick and relatively painless. Depending on the area being treated, the average volume injected per side of the face is around 1ml. It’s recommended you get 3 treatments spaced 4-6 weeks apart to achieve optimal results! The results typically last between 6 and 9 months, so you can enjoy your rejuvenated skin for quite a while. They have become an increasingly popular under-eye treatment, targeting an area that is notoriously difficult to address.

Let’s summarise the benefits.

• Reduces wrinkles and fine lines: Enjoy a smoother, more youthful complexion.

• Improves skin tone and texture: Achieve a radiant glow.

• Increases hydration: For plump, dewy skin.

• Enhances elasticity: For firmer, more lifted skin.

• Reduce inflammation: For red, irritated skin.

• Improve pigmentation: Even complexion and under eye circles.

• Minimal downtime: Return to your normal activities quickly.

What is the Evidence?

It’s important to acknowledge that this is a field of aesthetics that is still in its infancy, and there is ongoing debate around the use of polynucleotides, which can be seen in some of the reviews signposted below. Generally, the early evidence is positive: Clinical studies have shown the aforementioned improvements in hydration, elasticity, and collagen production after polynucleotide treatments.

A recent review looked at summarising some of the latest studies. Here comes a little science!

Salmon-sperm dervied polynucleotides activate adenosine A2A receptors, which contribute to tissue regeneration, collagen synthesis, anti-inflammatory effects, and angiogenesis (blood vessel growth). These mechanisms help repair damaged skin, reduce wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, and treat hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin synthesis.

Additionally, polynucleotides show potential in hair regeneration and wound healing. Its safety profile is becoming well-established, with clinical studies showing no significant adverse effects, making it a valuable agent in cosmetic medicine for rejuvenation and anti-ageing.

However it is important to note that research is still ongoing, and there is a need for larger and ongoing studies into this exciting new field of medicine.

Check out our summary slides below:

Citaions & Further Reading

Lee KWA, Chan KWL, Lee A, Lee CH, Wan J, Wong S, Yi KH. Polynucleotides in Aesthetic Medicine: A Review of Current Practices and Perceived Effectiveness. Int J Mol Sci. 2024 Jul 27;25(15):8224. doi: 10.3390/ijms25158224. PMID: 39125793; PMCID: PMC11311621.

Cavallini M, Bartoletti E, Maioli L, et al. Consensus report on the use of PN-HPT™ (polynucleotides highly purified technology) in aesthetic medicine. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021; 20: 922–928. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13679

Khan, A., Wang, G., Zhou, F., Gong, L., Zhang, J., Qi, L. and Cui, H., 2022. Polydeoxyribonucleotide: A promising skin anti-aging agent. Chinese Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 4(4), pp.187-193.

Lee YJ, Kim HT, Lee YJ, Paik SH, Moon YS, Lee WJ, Chang SE, Lee MW, Choi JH, Jung JM, Won CH. Comparison of the effects of polynucleotide and hyaluronic acid fillers on periocular rejuvenation: a randomized, double-blind, split-face trial. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022 Feb;33(1):254-260. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2020.1748857. Epub 2020 Apr 6. PMID: 32248707. 

Rahman E, Carruthers JDA, Rao P, Abu-Farsakh HN, Garcia PE, Ioannidis S, Sayed K, Philipp-Dormston WG, Mosahebi A, Webb WR. Regenerative Aesthetics: A Genuine Frontier or Just a Facet of Regenerative Medicine: A Systematic Review. Aesthetic Plast Surg. 2024 Aug 28. doi: 10.1007/s00266-024-04287-5. Epub ahead of print. PMID: 39198280.